When it comes to Rolex, I’m not here to play the part of a fanboy or detractor. I don’t worship at the brand’s “Green ‘n’ Gold” altar, nor do I despise its reputation. In fact, I take a neutral stance, much like the brand’s home country – Switzerland – known for its diplomatic neutrality. But despite my indifference toward the cult of Rolex, I did eventually buy one. Why? Let me explain.
The Role of Rolex in Today’s Market
The Rolex market is a strange beast, especially with the inflated prices and growing exclusivity around its most coveted models. Secondary market premiums, snooty authorized dealers, and endless waiting lists have become the norm. I’ve even written humorously about a future where replica Rolex boutiques might offer to cryogenically freeze customers while they wait years for a stainless-steel Daytona. As a counterpoint, there are those YouTubers who build entire channels around declaring that an obscure $100 Timex is “better than a Rolex” – a narrative designed more for clicks than genuine critique.
Yet, despite the snobbery and clickbait, I found myself drawn to one Rolex model in particular: the Air-King 116900, affectionately known as the “Bloodhound.”
The Appeal of the Air-King 116900
The Air-King Ref. 116900 has always been my favorite stainless-steel Rolex. Yes, I said it! Is it a sports watch? A tool watch? It’s hard to classify. Its dial, inspired by hypersonic vehicle dashboards, features a bold design with Arabic numerals counting down from 5 to 55, reminiscent of a speedometer. At the same time, there are oversized white gold markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, and the Rolex coronet and logo are in yellow and green – a rare color scheme for the brand.
My favorite detail is the quirky, stylized “Air-King” logo. It’s a fun touch, reminiscent of 1950s kitchen appliances more than a luxury watch. Despite the odd mix of elements, the dial is surprisingly legible, even for my middle-aged eyes. It’s one of the few watches in my collection that doesn’t require reading glasses to check the time. The Air-King is bold, unapologetically eccentric, and celebrates its uniqueness. It’s the “red-headed stepchild” of the Rolex lineup, and honestly, that’s what makes it stand out.
A Watch That Challenges Conventions
The Air-King challenges the question: Why be everyone’s cup of tea if you can be someone’s shot of tequila? Its case is a work of art – not the blocky “Super Case” of the Submariner or GMT, but a smooth, sculpted design that is both visually and tactically pleasing. It’s a far cry from the stiff, utilitarian cases found in many of Rolex’s other models.
Moreover, the watch’s additional thickness, a result of the soft iron cage used to shield the movement from magnetic interference, gives it a presence that’s impossible to ignore. It’s impressively hefty without being unwieldy, avoiding the “cheeseburger effect” that afflicts many similarly sized watches.
The Oyster bracelet, with its satin-brushed finish, is simply top-notch – comfortable, durable, and equipped with Rolex’s “Easy Link” adjustment system, making the Air-King feel like it was tailor-made for my wrist.
Technical Excellence: Beyond the Hype
Critics often dismiss Rolex’s technical capabilities, but that viewpoint ignores some of the brand’s most important innovations. While clone Rolex doesn’t dabble in Haute Horlogerie, they’ve pioneered numerous advancements over the last century. Take the Caliber 3131 movement in the Air-King – it’s one of the most reliable and accurate movements available, with exceptional shock resistance, anti-magnetism, and power reserve.
Speaking of magnetism, as someone who spends most of his day near electronics, I value the Air-King’s anti-magnetic capabilities. Thanks to the soft iron shield and Rolex’s Parachrom Bleu hairspring, this watch is resistant to magnetic fields, a real asset for anyone who regularly works with devices that could affect a mechanical movement.
The Parachrom Bleu hairspring, introduced in 2000, is made from a patented alloy that is not only non-magnetic but also more resistant to wear and heat than traditional materials. In 2014, Rolex took it a step further with the introduction of Syloxi, a silicon-based hairspring that offers even greater temperature resistance and improved gravity compensation.
Timing the Purchase
When rumors began circulating that the Air-King might soon be discontinued – along with its closely related cousin, the Milgauss – collectors rushed to snap up what they believed was a soon-to-be-rare reference. For a while, the Air-King was hard to find at retail, with prices on the secondary market climbing above $14,000. However, when Rolex announced a new reference for 2022, the Air-King’s market value took a hit, and prices returned to a more reasonable level. That’s when I decided it was finally time to pull the trigger.
I turned to Tim Mosso and the Watch Box, where a Senior Client Advisor helped me secure a like-new 2019 Air-King, complete with box, papers, tags, and even the plastic bezel guard. The price was right, and the deal included a two-year warranty and free overnight shipping – a win all around.
The Bottom Line
If you’ve already written off replica Rolex as an overpriced, overrated brand, then that’s your prerogative. But this article isn’t here to change minds or convert detractors. It’s simply one collector’s journey through the sometimes perplexing world of horology. The Rolex Air-King “Bloodhound” may not be for everyone, but for me, it’s the perfect blend of style, substance, and technical innovation. And sometimes, that’s all that matters.